New Problems in Joe's? Really?

In my previous update, I mentioned the wealth of new problems I have been finding in Joe's. The Spring was truly good to me and my crew of dedicated friends, and I can't wait for the heat to subside a bit so I can get back out there and pick up where I left off. DO WORK!!!!

Anyway, here is a list of my favorite new problems (and projects). If you would like to know where any of them are, just ask (rockman517@hotmail.com).

-The Kraken V5
-Raiden V8
-Bow to the East V9?
-Trapped in the Elevator Project
-The Tugboat Complex V8/9?
-Chunky Monkey V7
-Bring the Heatwole V8
-StrongBad V10/11?
-The Cloak and the Sword V6
-Match a Snatch V6/7
-Cattleguard V3
-East Coast Pass V8
-Lebanese Cheese V2
-The Calipygean Project
-A River Runs Through It V9

This may seem like alot of "favorites", but it really is a small sample of what was done this Spring, and the sheer number of classic projects that remain is overwhelming. So I'm officially putting the word out. If you have a brush and the psych to put in some work, just say the word. I'll point you in the right direction.

Hmmmm.....That wasn't hard to find.

Long time no....type?

Well, it's been a pretty long time since my last post, so I figured I'd give an update. 7 weeks ago, I tore my A2 pulley in my right ring finger, and haven't been able to fully weight my hand since. After lots of rest it is finally starting to feel better, and I think I can get back to climbing as usual shortly. In the meantime I have been trying to get my flooring company off the ground, and when I'm REALLY bored I've been building nifty things out of scrap wood from our yard, such as a nice bench for relaxing on between burns in the basement, and a planter so that Mary can have her own little herb garden.

Ryan, Kelsey, and Sharka...Family Portrait Chock Full O' Weird

In other news, Mary and I have welcomed a puppy into our little family named Diesel. She belonged to my brother, but he wasn't able to be home enough for her because he has a very busy work schedule. So, we decided to give her a home. We've had her for a whole month now, and she has been a wonderful dog so far. So without further adieu, I give you the only dog on Earth Mary is not allergic to.

Diesel, the desert flower, on her first visit to Joe's Valley

Prior to my injury, I had been putting up a wealth of new problems in Joe's with the help of my friends Ryan, Kelsey, Yuri, and Val who all live wherever their cars are parked. Yes, I'm jealous. I've also been getting ready for the Summer Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow, and the chaos that ensues during that one faithful week per year. In a mere ten days, we will have 8 people and two dogs living in our house (one bathroom). I'll go ahead and apologize ahead of time for all of us to anyone we may interact with at OR on a day when the hot water runs out, and showering therfore overlooked. With that, I'll leave you with photos of some new problems in Joe's. More blogging to come soon. Enjoy.

Me on the FA of Raiden V8. The best roof climb in Joe's?

Kelsey trying hard on A River Runs Through It V9. Ryan did this one first. Uhhhhh!!!!

Me on the FA of The Kraken V5. 30ft of beautiful...ness.

A Long Time Comin'

It's been a long time since an entry, mainly because I've been terribly busy trying to remodel a new house for Mary and I to live in. After almost two months of work we are all moved in, and the house is in pretty nice shape. I also installed a nice little addition to the basement that should help us get a bit stronger and hopefully send the wealth of projects we have found in Joe's.

Mmmmm.....60 degreeeees.....(Mutation Station)

We've also been doing some new stuff in Joe's.....still.....However, I continue to hear about how Joe's is tapped out. A couple of friends and I are working on an online project that may change peoples minds. More on that later. For now, here is a new problem that my friend Patrick and I put up (1st and 2nd respectively) that I then broke trying to repeat for photos (way to go, Fat Boy!). It is now a project once again, and a mere 50 yards from the road, tops.

The Calipygean Project (was V9/10...now???)

Also, I have started making some shapes. I've never tried to make holds before, but I figured it would be a fun thing to try, and a natural progression given my art background and extensive routesetting experience. I have had SO much fun with it so far, and I hope I get to keep doing it. Maybe someone will even want to use them.

"Rocco like Crimps"

Hueco Rock Rodeo 2009

Just a heads up for those not in the know: On February 28th, Five Ten and the Hueco Rock Ranch will be hosting the 2009 Hueco Rock Rodeo. This is a not to be missed event. It is a wonderful display of the climbing community coming together to celebrate our camaraderie, friendship, and our common enjoyment of one of the greatest climbing areas on Earth....Hueco Tanks (the after party isn't so bad either!) So buy a plane ticket, gas up the car, hop on a bus, stick out your thumb...just get there, you won't regret it.

Register At:

http://www.huecorockranch.com/

More HOT Hueco Action...

Greetings from Hueco!

Since my last post it has been really really hot here in Hueco...we're talking 80 degrees. There are some storms passing through today, so we are resting and hoping that it is going to cool down for our last week here (it looks like it should according to the forcast). Since it has been so hot and gross, I've been taking the opportunity to climb lots and lots of moderate classics from V0-V10 that I haven't had the chance to get on in my previous two (short) visits here. It has been an amazing time so far, and very satisfying doing 5 or 10 new problems everyday out climbing. I hope it has gotten my fitness up, and helped me learn the rock here enough to send some harder things this upcoming week. At this point this has been one of my most enjoyable trips ever, and anything else that I do is just icing on the cake. That being said, I'm going to try to do Rumble in the Jungle V12, Full Monty V12, Power of Landjager V11, Choir Boys V9, and Diaphanous Sea V12 this last week....most of which I've never tried before.....I guess I like to set my goals high....

Julio and Me V9/10.....SO GOOD!

Stealth Paint like WHOA! A new Hueco necessity!

On the other end of the spectrum is Mary. It seems like the weather hasn't slowed her down even a little bit. From my perspective this has been a breakthrough trip for her, and it would appear as though all her training has paid off.....She is literally crushing everything she decides to put some effort into. All of her projects from last season fell in a try or two, and almost looked like warmups. She has since lined up new projects, and taken some of them down already. She's on a roll. Yesterday she dispatched the terrifying mega classic highball Roughage V7 in good style, and I think I was more scared spotting than she was climbing. Will this be Mary's trip to climb V10? Time and some good temps will tell.....

Mary Warming up by Flashing T Bone Shuffle V4


Mary starting Roughage



All these photos are compliments of our good buddy, and very talented photographer,
Craig Copelin.
Check out his stuff at www.nilepoc.com

First 5 days in Hueco

Well, it's our fifth day in Hueco, and it's a rest day. So far Mary and I have been trying to get adjusted to the rock here, and we've been taking the time to tick off some of the classic moderates. Mary has had a super strong start. She did See Spot Run V6, and Chris' Arete V8 (in a couple tries) on her second day climbing. Yesterday she did Dragonfly, which was a project of hers from last year. I have gotten off to a pretty slow start, and have been just trying to take it easy until I feel something click and start to feel better. As of right now the only problem from my list that I've tried is Diablolique. Besides the climbing, we have been having a great time hanging out with a bunch of friends that we don't get to see too often. Keep a sharp eye, there's two weeks left, and alot more to come.

Sorry, no pics yet, but soon.

Turkey Day in Bishop

Since Mary and I were under some constraints from work, and plane tickets were so expensive, we decided to take the 8 hour drive to Bishop for Thanksgiving and a few days after. It turned out to be a great trip (albeit a bit warm). Out of pure chance, we met up with our friends Chas and Vera, who are old friends of Mary's from Baltimore. It was a great time, and we got to climb with some great people, including our new friends from Singapore "Spy" and Leng. It was nice to have some good energy and motivating people to climb and chat with. Here are some photos from the trip.

Vera and Chas

Turkey Sandwiches on Thanksgiving

Mary and High Plains Drifter (Post Send)

On the road to Bishop

Mary sending High Plains Drifter V7